Menswear Guide

Helping Gentlemen Dress Better - Look Good, Feel Good

Exploring the Different ‘Cuts’ for Denim Jeans

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Denim jeans are the world’s single most popular type of pants. Worn by both men and women of all ages, they offer an unmatched level of versatility. But not all jeans are the same, with many featuring different measurements and stitching. This is why it’s important to choose the right “cut” when shopping for a new pair of denim jeans.

Boot Cut

Boot cut jeans live up their namesake by featuring a unique design that’s specifically geared towards boots. They typically open around the ankles, becoming wider through the leg. This allows the wearer to place the bottom of his or her jeans over their boots. While boot cut jeans were originally made for use with boots, you can wear them with any type of shoes or footwear.

Straight Leg

Another popular cut for denim jeans is straight leg. Not to be confused with skinny jeans, straight leg jeans run straight through the thigh, leg and ankle. They fall somewhere between relaxed fit and skinny, enhancing the wearer’s appearance by hugging the body. Straight leg jeans have become increasingly popular in recent years, with many men preferring to wear them over other cuts.

Skinny

Skinny jeans are characterized by an even tighter fit through the thigh and leg. They generally have a small and narrow leg opening of 9-20″. One of the most common complaints associated with this cut, however, is its constricting properties. Because they hug the body so tightly, many people find them uncomfortable to wear. This is particularly true if you are a highly active individual, as the constricting properties of skinny jeans will restrict your movement.

Low Rise and High Rise

The “rise” of jeans refers to the height at which it sits on the waist. There are two specific types of rises: low rise and high rise. Low rise jeans sit lower on the waist, whereas high rise sit higher on the waist. Low rise jeans are generally preferred over their counterpart for both comfort and aesthetics.

These are just a few of the most common cuts in which jeans are made. Something else to consider when choosing jeans is the fabric. Most jeans are made of 100% denim, but some contain a combination of both denim and another fabric. Stretch jeans, for instance, are made with denim and an elastic fabric like polyester. Just a small amount of polyester provides greater elasticity, allowing the jeans to stretch without sustaining damage.

References:

https://www.jackthreads.com/jtedit/2015/04/30/are-you-wearing-the-right-jeans

Khakis vs Chinos: What’s the Difference?

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Denim jeans are the perfect all-around pants for casual events and occasions. They are comfortable, strong, durable and easy to match with other garments. Jeans, however, lack the formality needed for certain formal events and occasions. This is why it’s a good idea to diversify your wardrobe with a slightly more formal pair of pants, such as khakis or chinos.


Photo Credit: Robert Sheie @ www.menswear-market.com

While similar in appearance, khakis and chinos are two unique garments with their own respective characteristics. Some men assume they are the same, but each of these garments are different. So, what’s the difference between khakis and chinos, and which style should you choose?

Khakis

Khakis are usually thicker than their chinos, offering a greater level of warmth for the wearer. They are often make of either cotton or a cotton-polyester blend, with the latter being used for “stretch” khakis. You’ll also notice that khakis are available in both pleated and non-pleated fronts. Pleated fronts were once a popular choice but have declined in popularity over the years. Today, most men prefer non-pleated khakis. This doesn’t apply strictly to khakis, however. Non-pleated pants are often preferred for their clean and modern appearance.

Chinos

Chinos, on the other hand, are usually lighter and thinner than their khaki counterpart. While they are also available in cotton and cotton-polyester blends, chinos are usually made in a lighter fabric like linen. This makes them preferable for warm-weather. Chinos also tend to taper through the leg, becoming more narrow the further down they go. Chinos can be either cuffed or uncuffed.

So, should you wear khakis or chinos? It really depends on your personal style and the occasion during which you’ll wear them. In addition to the nuances listed above, another difference between these two pants lies in their formality. Chinos are typically more formal than khakis, offering a cleaner appearance. This doesn’t necessarily mean that you should avoid wearing khakis for formal occasions, but it’s still something to consider nonetheless. Chinos often have hidden stitching, adding to their formality, whereas khakis have exposed stitching.

Whether you choose to wear khakis or chinos, however, it’s important to pair them with the right shirt. Assuming you choose the traditional “khaki” color (for either khakis or chinos), you shouldn’t have a problem finding a matching shirt. This is because a variety of colors match with khakis, making the process of creating a matching outfit just a little easier.

References:

http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/khakis-versus-chinos/

5 Tips on Cleaning and Caring for Silk Shirts

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Silk is a prized, luxurious textile that’s frequently used in the construction of high-quality men’s dress shirts. Made from the material produced by silkworms on mulberry leaves, it has several unique characteristics that make it stand out from other fabrics. Silk is soft, shiny, comfortable, and exceptionally strong relative to its weight. But if you’re thinking of buying a silk dress shirt, there are a few things you should know about cleaning and caring for it.

Don’t Spot Treat Stains

You can typically clean most shirts and garments by “spot treating” the dirty or stained area. If you spill coffee on your jeans, for instance, blotting the stain with a damp washcloth should remove it. Silk is more delicate than denim (and even cotton), however, so you shouldn’t attempt to spot treat stains in this manner. Doing so may cause discoloration, permanently affecting the way your silk shirt looks.

Don’t Stretch it

This doesn’t apply strictly to silk shirts; it applies to all delicate shirts and garments. If you stretch a silk dress shirt, it could damage the fabric, preventing it from returning back to its original shape.

Hand-Wash

Steps to cleaning a silk dress shirt vary depending on the type, manufacturer, and whether or not it contains other fabrics. Normally, however, it’s best to hand-wash silk shirts rather than placing them in the washing machine. Washing machines are too harsh for silk. Even on the “gentle” setting, they can damage the otherwise delicate silk fabric. This is why it’s best to err on the side of caution by hand-washing your silk shirts.

Line-Dry

The golden rule of washing silk dress shirts is to line-dry them. Sure, using a traditional machine dryer is probably faster and easier, but silk is too delicate for them. After washing your silk dress shirt, hang it on a line to dry. It may take several hours for it to completely dry, but this is a safer solution for drying silk than using a traditional machine dryer.

Low-Heat Iron

While there’s no rule stating that you cannot iron silk shirts, you should use the lowest heat setting possible to prevent damage. Silk is highly susceptible to heat damage. When exposed to heat, it can literally melt, at which point there’s no easy way to fix it. To prevent such damage, you should only iron silk shirts using the lowest heat setting possible. Or when in doubt, have your silk shirts professionally dry cleaned.

References:

http://tide.com/en-us/how-to-wash-clothes/washing-different-fabrics/how-to-wash-and-care-for-silk-clothes

How to Choose a Winter Jacket

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The winter season is officially here, and with this seasonal transition comes bitterly cold temperatures. Thankfully, you can stay warm and comfortable throughout the winter and beyond by wearing the right jacket. But with so many different jackets, how do you know which to choose?

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Material

One of the most important things to consider when choosing a winter jacket is the material. Jackets are made in a variety of different fabrics, including wool, cashmere, polyester, leather, nylon and more. Organic materials like cotton, wool and cashmere are typically the softest and warmest, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they are the best. The problem with these materials is their ability to absorb and hold moisture, making them a poor choice to wear on a rainy or snowy day. Synthetic materials like polyester and nylon, on the other hand, are resistant to moisture.

Lining

Even if you choose a jacket made of a waterproof synthetic material, it may feature a soft, organic lining. Jackets such as these offer the best of both words: they are resistant to moisture, yet they are still super soft and comfortable to wear.

Color

The color of your winter jacket will play an important role in its overall appearance. Brown is always a safe choice, as it’s easy to match with other garments (and accessories like your shoes and belt). If you aren’t a fan of brown, perhaps you should choose a black winter jacket. Black is equally as versatile but offers a slightly more formal appearance. In any case, you can’t go wrong with either a brown or black winter jacket.

Hood or No Hood

Something else to consider when choosing a winter jacket is whether or not you need a hood. If you spend a significant amount of time outdoors, then a hood will certainly prove useful. It keeps your head protected from the rain and snow, while also keeping your ears and face warm in the process. But if you spend most of your time indoors, a hooded jacket probably isn’t necessary.

Pockets

Does the jacket have pockets? Some men prefer the clean-cut look of jackets without pockets. While pockets typically don’t offer any aesthetic value, they can improve the function and utility of your winter jacket. Convention wisdom should tell you that wearing a jacket with pockets offers more storage space. If you need to carry small tools and items with you, perhaps these pockets can prove useful.

References:

http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_400/418_fashion_advice.html

How to Keep Your Jeans from Fraying at the Bottom

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Have you noticed frayed fabric at the bottom of your jeans? There’s a big difference between distressed and damaged denim. If the bottom of your jeans have frayed to the point where the denim is unraveling, it’s damaged. And unfortunately, the problem will likely become worse unless you remove the damaged fabric. So, how do you prevent your jeans from fraying at the bottom in the first place?

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Choose the Right Size

I know this probably sounds like common sense, but it’s still worth mentioning that you should choose the right size when buying a new pair of jeans. If they are too long, even by just a size or two, they’ll have excess fabric on the bottom that could drag on the ground and cause cause subsequent fraying. Wearing the right size, however, prevents this from happening, ensuring there’s no excess fabric dragging on the ground.

Quality Over Quantity

Ever heard the saying “quality over quantity?” Well, that’s a good mantra to follow when buying new jeans. Low-quality jeans may cost less, but they are also more likely to fray at the bottom. This is because low-quality denim is lighter and more susceptible to damage.  If you want your jeans to last, choose a single pair of high-quality jeans instead of several low-quality jeans.

Wash Less Frequently

No, that’s not a typo. You can prolong the life of your jeans and protect them from damage — including frayed fabric at the bottom — by washing them less frequently. Several denim experts even recommend “rarely” washing your jeans, as each time you wash them the fabric degrades just a little more. Instead of washing your jeans after each wear, try washing them only when they are dirty. This should make a world of difference in their longevity, allowing you to get more bang for your buck.

Check Your Shoes

Your choice of shoes or footwear will also play a role in whether or not your jeans fray at the bottom. If you wear sandals or flip-flops, for instance, there’s a greater chance of this happening simply because the fabric is allowed to drag on the ground. On the other hand, wearing boots will keep the denim fabric off the ground. So, if you experience problems with your jeans fraying at the bottom, consider wearing boots. Granted, this isn’t always an option, but it’s still something you should be aware of if you frequently experience this problem.

References:

https://www.bustle.com/articles/104745-how-to-cut-the-bottom-of-your-jeans-for-diy-frayed-perfection